This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged. Scent Sense — Peony. Scent Sense: Lily of the Valley. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Search for:. Read Online Download. Woods Main Characters: Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, Giuseppe Baldini, Madame Gaillard, Jeanne Bussie, Father Terrier category: fiction, classics, historical, historical fiction, horror, mystery, thriller, mystery, crime, european literature, german literature, historical, novels Formats: ePUB Android , audible mp3, audiobook and kindle.
Great book, Perfume pdf is enough to raise the goose bumps alone. Add a review Your Rating: Your Comment:. Perfume by Patrick Suskind. See Kypros. A perfume bottle made with a pressure device, often operated by squeezing a rubber bulb, which discharges its fragrance as a fine spray.
Originally developed as medicinal throat sprays, atomizers, notably those made by the American firm DeVilbiss, were used for perfumes from about Fine examples are now much sought after by collectors. Attar Also known as Otto. A fragrant essential oil derived from a flower by distillation. The word comes from Arabic 'Itr, meaning a perfume also 'Atr jul in Persian, meaning 'fat of a flower'.
It is applied in particular to the essential oil of the rose. The term is sometimes used loosely to signify any essential oil. America, Asia and Australia.
The botanical name Geum originates from a Greek word meaning 'to yield an agreeable fragrance'. The plant has many country names, in- cluding Avens Root, Clove Root, Colewort, Goldy Star, Caryophyllata, Wood Avens, Wild Rye and Herb Bennett a corruption from 'the blessed herb' because of the belief that it could ward off evil spirits and wild beasts. The rhizomes have a clove-like fragrance and are dried for use in sachet powders and pot pourri as well as for flavouring and medicinal purposes.
In 17th century England they were strewed among clothes to provide fragrance and keep away moths. They were once thought to counter bubonic plague. The leaves, also dried for use in pot pourri, have a sweet, clover-like smell. Avocado Oil An oil obtained by expression from the dried fruits of the Avocado tree Persea gratissima , which grows to about 20 feet high and is native to tropical America.
The tree is now cultivated widely in tropical areas. The oil is one of the most penetrating oils known. It is used in cosmetics and soaps. Avon Founded in the USA in by David McConnell, a travelling book salesman who liked to give his customers a gift of inexpensive perfume. It is now one of the largest manufacturers of fragrances, cosmetics and toiletries in the world. It opened in Britain, as Avon Cosmetics Ltd, in , selling to the mass market directly through its representatives, the 'Avon ladies'.
Avon fragrances, of which two or three new ones are introduced every year, are sold as sprays at eau de toilette concentration and include some long-standing lines such as 'Moonwind' and 'Charisma' Many of them are created for Avon by one or other of the large wholesale fragrance manufacturers see Perfume Manufacture.
The company's main headquarters and factory complex is at Suffern, in California, and a factory in Northampton manufactures products sold in Britain and Europe. In Avon entered the quality perfume market by acquiring Giorgio Beverly Hills. Aydendron rosaeodora see Linaloe Azalea The flowers of several species of Azalea, shrubs of the genus Rhododendron, are fragrant, but perfume with the fragrance of Azalea is made synthetically.
A creation of the fragrance firm Naarden now Quest , its principal ingredients are lavender, with other fresh, herbaceous elements, in the top note, patchouli with some woody elements in the middle note, and amber and musk in the base note.
The bottle was designed by Pierre Dinand. Fruity, aldehydic top notes, with mandarin and bergamot, head floral middle notes, principally of jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, iris and tuberose. The lower notes include sandalwood, vanilla and vetivert. The flacon was de- signed, as a black 'moonstone', by Serge Mansau. It was a popular base oil in ancient Egyptian perfumes, fragrant flowers or herbs being steeped in it to impart their scents.
Theophrastus described Balanos, coming either from Egypt or Syria, as the oil most used in perfumery, noting that it was a good fixative. See also Ximenia and Egyptian Perfumes. It contains some ingredients, mostly natural. Rose, jasmine and orange flower in the top note herald a middle note which includes patchouli, sandalwood and vetivert, with musk, civet and amber among the base notes. It is presented in a variety of hand-polished crystal flacons, designed by Pierre Dinand and carrying a label which repro- duces a painting by Fragonard, contained in silk-brocaded boxes.
Balsam 21 Balenciaga Parfums Balenciaga was founded by the Spanish-born Paris couturier Cristobal Balenciaga with the launching of his first perfume, 'Le Dix', in The success of this led to 'Quadrille' 55, relaunched 89 , followed by 'Cialenga' 73 , 'Michelle' 80 , 'Prelude' 82 and 'Rumba' 88 , together with men's fragrances which include 'Ho Hang' 71 and 'Eau de Balenciaga Lavande' After acquisition by the German group Hoescht, the company was in taken over by J.
Europe and S. Asia and now grows widely. Commercial Oil of Balm is usually distilled with Oil of Lemon. Once an ingredient of Carmelite Water, it is used in perfumes, toilet waters, ointments, liqueurs and furniture polishes, and the dried leaves are used in sachets and pot pourri.
The plant was introduced into Britain by the Romans. It should not be confused with the Melissa plant of ancient times, used in medicine and for bees, which prob- ably carne from a Mediterranean herb Prasium majus. The word 'balm' is an abbreviation of 'balsam' and the two words are often used synonymously; it indicates a honeyed sweetness. Balm of Gilead A balm, or balsam, referred to in the Old Testament, notably in reference to 'a company of Ishmaelites from Gilead with their camels bearing spicery and balm and myrrh For centuries this balm has been confused with Balsam of Judaea, with which it is not connected.
The plant from which it was derived is unknown; possibly it was the balsam known as Balsam of Makkah, but it may have been resin from the terebinth or lentisk. American tree, and for a shrub Cedro nella tryphylla, found in the Canary Islands, and also for some other plants with a balsamic fragrance. Balm of Gilead Buds see Tacamahac Balm of Peru see Balsam of Peru Balmain The Balmain fashion house, which now sells a wide variety of products, was opened in Paris in by Pierre Balmain , who produced his first perfume, the innovative 'Vent Vert', in the same year.
Balmain' After various ownerships, the company was pur- chased in by the Canadian businessman Erich Fayer. Balsam A viscous, resinous exudation from certain trees and shrubs, with a consistency which is thick but not solid. They have in common a vanilla- like odour. The words Balsam and Balm are often used synonymously. The word Balsam is also used for certain flowering plants of the genus Impatiens.
The oil is sweet and balsamic, with a peppery overtone. One tree may yield up to 12 gallons of oil, and the trees have even been known to burst under the pressure of the oil inside them. The oil is an excellent fixative, and is used in incenses, pomander beads and pot pourri as well as in perfumes. A similar balsam used medicinally and sometimes in per- fumery comes from Hardwickia pinnata, native to India, and from Oxystigma mannii of tropical Africa, the balsam of which is called West African Copaiba.
See also Bois d'Olhio. Balsam Fir see Canada Balsam Balsam Herb see Costmary Balsam of Judaea The botanical identity of the plant providing this balsam, by far the most valuable of all the perfume materials of the ancients, is not known. It is usually, but incorrectly, identified with Balsam of Makkah and Balm of Gilead. Pliny stated that 'every scent ranks below the balsam'.
Several classical authors have related that from as early as the time of Alexander the Great it was only known as a cultivated plant growing in Judaea, in two irrigated plantations near Jericho which belonged to the king and which Cleopatra took over from Herod after her marriage to Anthony. Josephus held that the first seeds were brought to Solomon by the Queen of Sheba. The Romans, who subsequently expanded the cultivated area in Palestine, regarded it so highly that branches of it were carried in triumphal processions in Rome.
The plant was described as a small, vine-like bush with leaves like rue, and the balsam resin, called opobalsamum, exuded slowly in tiny drops which were collected in a shell, one man taking a whole day to fill his shell. Between them the two original plantations only produced about 40 pints of opobalsamum a year.
So rare and sought after was the perfume that in the time of Theophrastus it cost more than twice its weight in silver, and in Pliny's time it was worth denarii a pint, or about times as much as the costliest frankincense.
Pliny described an unguent with xylobalsamum among its ingredients. A 12th century Arab recorded that in his time one small garden of balsam bushes had survived in Egypt, but that they no longer grew in Palestine. There is uncertain record of the existence of the perfume in the 13th century, but no subsequent account of it. Various suggestions have been made as to the identity of Balsam of Judaea, but none satisfactory, and it would appear that this most romantic of perfume plants may well have become extinct.
In Arabia the tree is known as Basham or Balasan d. For a very long time this plant has been much confused with Balsam of Judaea and Balm of Gilead, the botanical names reflecting early beliefs that these plants were all the same.
Identity with Balm of Gilead is possible but not certain. The balsam produced by it had a vogue in medieval times, when it was mainly gathered from trees in the area of Makkah and when unsuccessful attempts were made to cultivate it in Egypt. It is little used today and not at all in western perfumery.
See also under Myrrh. Balsam of Peru Also called Balm of Peru. An oleo-resin with a cinnamon-like fragrance obtained, by treatment with alcohol, from the fruits and bark of a large tree Myroxylon balsamom var. The balsam from the fruit pods, which is superior, is sometimes known as Myrocarpin. A similar balsam is also derived from the trunk of a species of Cabreu tree see Cabreu Oil. An oil is distilled from the balsam and is the substance now mostly used in perfumery e.
The fragrance is vanilla-like. Balsam of Peru is a good fixative and is used in many types of perfume, making a good base for oriental-type perfumes.
It is also used in soaps, cosmetics and incenses. It has a vanilla or benzoin-like fragrance and the balsam hardens as it ages. It is a good fixative and used in incenses and perfumes e.
When dissolved in a minute portion of liquor potassa the fragrance changes to that of clove-pink. Balsamic Note A term used in perfumery to describe the sweet, soft and warm fragrance of balsams and resins. See Perfume Notes. Asia but now grown widely in tropical areas, and the Horse Banana tree M.
Though called trees, these plants are large herbs. Banana Shrub Oil A banana-scented oil extracted from the flowers of the Banana Shrub Michelia fuscata , which originated in China but is now cultivated widely. It is used in scenting hair oils. A plant cultivated for its essential oil and also used in pot pourri and sachets as well as in cookery and flavouring.
The name Basil derives from the Greek meaning 'king', indicating the high esteem in which it was held. Orthodox Greeks still regard it as a holy plant. The plant is an annual, growing to about 3 feet high Ocimum basilicum and is thought to have originated in India. It is now cultivated widely for its essential oil, obtained from the leaves. The fragrance is sharp and spicy, with some similarity to mignonette and is used in quality perfumes e.
Other varieties are also found, one with a scent of citron, another with that of tarragon. An Indian species 0. The early Arab perfume makers used the oils of O. Arabian variety called 'Nabataean Basil', and of Bush Basil 0. It was once believed that a sprig of basil left under a pot would in time turn into a scorpion. Basil Thyme see Calamint Bastard Cinnamon see Cassia Bastard Bullet Tree see Houmiri Batteuse A machine used by the perfume industry in the south of France for extracting the perfume from concretes by means of alcohol.
Baur, Albert A German chemist who patented the first synthetic musk perfume, Musk Baur, in and was responsible for other formulas for synthetic musk Musk Ketone and Musk Ambrette. See Synthetic Fragrances. A spicy fragrant oil, sometimes used in perfumery to provide a masculine note, which is steam-distilled from the leaves of the Bay tree Laurus nobilis. An example of its use in a modern quality perfume is 'Knowing'. It grows up to 25 feet high in the UK, but up to 60 feet in warmer climates.
The dried leaves are used in sachets and pot pourri and as a flavouring. The Bay was much venerated in classical and biblical times, being regarded as ben- eficial to health and happiness. The Greeks and Romans dedicated it to Apollo and to Aesculapius, the god of medicine, and used it in crowns and garlands as a symbol of victory. Throughout history it has been used as a strewing herb both for its scent and for its antiseptic pro- perties.
A fat, Bay Fat, is extracted from the berries to make soap, as also is an oil known as Oil of Bays. The early Arabs used oil obtained from both the leaves and the berries in their perfumes. Bay Pine Tree see Oyster Oil Bdellium An aromatic gum obtained from certain species of trees of the genus Commiphora once classified as Balsamodendron , which also en- compasses Myrrh and Balsam of Makkah.
Several sorts of bdellium are used in perfumery, most importantly that called Opoponax q. Other bdellium trees include C. Bdellium was known to the Romans and is referred to twice in the Old Testament, but there is still uncertainty about which of the trees were regarded in ancient times as producing bdellium and which as producing myrrh. Green top notes from thyme and clary sage introduce a floral bouquet, mainly of rose, jasmine, carnation and orange flower, with a background accord in the lower note which includes vetivert, patchouli, frankincense, myrrh, tonka, vanilla, oak moss, orris and beeswax.
The flacon was designed by Ira Levy. Beaux, Ernest Famous in perfume history as the man who created 'Chanel No. Beaux, a chemist, met 'Coco' Chanel when he was experimenting with ways of fixing aldehydes for use in perfumery. She encouraged his work and, in , he presented her with two sets of sample fragrances using aldehydes, labelled Nos and From these she chose No.
He also created 'Soir de Paris' for Bourjois. It is used in cosmetics and ointments, principally to thicken essential oils, and appears occasionally as an ingredient in perfumes e. See also Propolis and Honey. India, but now cultivated widely. The oil is clear and odourless, does not go rancid, and readily accepts other fragrances added to it, making Ben Oil an excellent base oil for per- fumes and valuable in enfleurage and maceration. It has been used in perfumery, cosmetics and medicines since the days of ancient Egypt when it was taken from the Egyptian species of the tree, M.
Pliny noted dif- ferent varieties of the tree growing in Arabia, Egypt and Ethiopia, the Arabian providing the best-quality oil and the Egyptian the highest yielding. It appeared in many of the perfumes of the early Arabs.
Benckiser Following acquisitions in , this is now the largest German company in the fragrance industry. The material is present in Bitter Almond Oil, with which it is almost identical, and in some other natural oils. Benzaldehyde is sold as an artificial almond oil. It is used in small amounts in violet and heliotrope types of perfume, and in soaps. Benzene A substance derived from coal tar, used in the manufacture of synthetic rose scents and many other artificial fragrances.
A sweet-smelling oleo-resin obtained from a number of related species of trees found in S. Asia, more especially Styrax benzoin and s. The resin from it has a storax-like fragrance. The more highly valued resin from S. Benzoin oil is extracted from the gum with alcohol or benzene. Benzoin was for long an important ingredient in pomanders and was used in incenses and soaps as well as to give 'body' to many perfumes. Examples of its use in modern quality perfumes are 'Chamade', 'Crepe de Chine' and 'Opium'.
It is an excellent fixative and is added to sachets and pot pourri. It is also an ingredient in Friar's Balsam. In perfumery it is regarded as one of the most useful synthetic materials available, being inex- pensive to produce, and is a basis of almost all jasmine perfumes. Benzyl Alcohol An alcohol used in perfumery which occurs naturally in many essential oils, including jasmine, tuberose, wallflower and ylang- ylang.
It is also synthesized chemically. In origin a N. American swamp herb Monarda didyma , this plant is now cultivated widely and grows up to 2 feet high in Britian. Flowers and leaves have a sharp flavour and fragrance similar to that of the Bergamot Orange. The oil is described as reminiscent of lavender and ambergris, and is used in perfumery and hair preparations, the dried leaves and flowers also being used in sachets and pot pourri.
America the leaves are also used as a tea. America, Asia, S. Europe and N. Africa, from the leaves of which is distilled an essential oil with a lemon and lavender-like fragrance resembling Bergamot Oil.
Theophrastus noted its use in BC as an ingredient in Greek perfumes. The oil is used in perfumery and the dried leaves in sachets and pot pourri. See also Mint. The tree, which originated in tropical Asia, is cultivated for the oil in S.
Italy, Sicily and Spain and also, to an extent, in S. America and W. The name Bergamot is believed to derive from the Turkish beg-armudi, meaning 'the prince's pear', because the fruit is pear-shaped. It should not be confused with Monarda Oil extracted from the Bergamot plant. See also Bitter Orange Oil and Neroli. Some 25 different perfume materials are mentioned in the Bible, but the identification of some of them is by no means certain.
Difficulties in translating from the ancient texts have sometimes led to plants being incorrectly named e. Frankincense and myrrh feature consistently in both Old and New Testaments. Israelite women wore a sachet underneath their clothes containing myrrh and other substances, which would release their fragrance from the warmth of the wearer's body.
The special appeal of myrrh is reflected in many places in the Bible, and the Book of Esther reveals that girls selected for the Persian court were prepared over a twelve-month period, 'six months with oil of myrrh and six months with sweet odours'. Other perfume plants mentioned in the Bible include aloes, balm, calamus, camphire, cassia, cinnamon, galbanum, labdanum, myrtle, saffron, spikenard, stacte and storax, all in contexts indicating a refer- ence to them as perfume plants.
Certain other plants used in perfumery, such as lily, bdellium, mint, anise, cumin and coriander, are mentioned without being related to perfume. The rose, which is referred to fre- quently, is now thought to have covered several different flowers.
A number of oils used as perfume bases are also mentioned e. Of compound perfumes, we know from Exodus that the holy anointing oil of the early Hebrews consisted of myrrh, 'cinnamon', calamus, 'cassia' and olive oil, while the holy perfume incense , 'a confection after the art of the apothecary', was made from equal parts of stacte, onycha, galbanum and frankincense.
Neither of these com- pounds was allowed to be used for secular purposes. The oil was also once known as Russian Leather Oil, being imported from Russia and used for scenting and preserving book leather. See also Birch Tar oil. Birch Tar Oil A thick bituminous liquid with a woody, tarry, smoky odour, obtained by distillation from the bark of the European Birch tree Common Birch tree Betula alba , which grows widely in Europe and N. It is similar to Oil of Gaultheria Wintergreen and used mainly in masculine fragrances e.
See also Birch Bud oil. America and Japan. The early Arab perfumers used it in making a base for solid perfumes. There is some evidence that it was used in ancient Egypt, principally for medicinal purposes and in con- nection with child birth.
See also Asarabacca. The best is obtained from the S. It is sometimes used in perfumes today, but mainly in medicine. Bitter Almond Oil was one of the ingredients of the famous Metopium perfume oil of ancient Egypt and was used as a base oil for scented materials see Balanos.
Theophrastus noted that some of the perfume makers of ancient Greece regarded it as the best base for making unguents, although it was not very long-lasting. The early Arab perfume makers used it as a base for jasmine oil. See Benzaldehyde. See also Bergamot Oil.
The oil is mostly produced in Sicily and Italy, but also in California, W. India and N. It is used in Eau de Colognes, in some perfumes, especially of a chypre type, and also in soaps. It is also produced synthetically see Perfume Creation. It is usually extracted by volatile solvents as a concrete which gives a high yield of absolute.
It is used in high-quality perfumes to provide a special effect e. Bloodwort see MiHoil 'Blue Grass' A famous classic perfume by Elizabeth Arden, first brought out by the founder of that firm, Florence Graham, in and named to recall the view from her home in Virginia.
The perfume was created by Georges Fuchs of Fragonard, the Grasse perfume makers, and was relaunched in The top note is fresh and aldehydic, with a middle note of various flower fragrances built on jasmine, rose and lavender and given a spicy touch by clove, pepper and nutmeg.
The base note is chiefly sandalwood, with suggestions of vetiver and Virginia cedar. A plant Myrica gale growing to about 3 feet high which is found in N. America and Europe. A wax, sometimes called Myrtle Wax, is drawn from the berries and used to make fragrant candles.
Bogart, Jacques A perfume company founded by Jacques Konckier in , in conjunction with the Paris couturier Jacques Bogart, to launch the men's fragrance 'Bogart'. This was followed by 'One Man Show' 80 and 'Furya' In it acquired the firm of Balenciaga. China and Vietnam, where they are known respectively as Pe-mow, Se-mow and Hoang-da. The oil is sweet and cedar-like. The wood, which is also aromatic, is used for making jewel boxes and coffins.
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